Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling…Of getting a trophy after surfing some junky waves! I am in that group somewhere.
Perhaps one of the most corniest ad campaigns…and yet…
Maybe one of the most relevant phrases ever uttered to surfers.
But what does it mean to me these days?
A Phrase for Every Moment
A few years back, this phrase meant that myself and the 75 people I shared the day with shared a special relationship as we back paddled each other and I sat so deep that no one could get inside of me without running aground on the jetty.
Being a surfer was me and it was what I have done for the majority of my life.
Now, it means something bad.
Only a surfer knows the feeling of being on the outside. Locked out from doing what they love.
Getting texts from friends in far-flung countries. Glaring at videos of perfect days. Watching wave after wave after wave come in to your friends on the local Surfline cam.
Masochism and Surviving
A great part of blogging is following the blogs of others.
One of my favorites belongs to Jason Borte.
Jason and I are almost the same. We both surfed contests. We both grew up surfing and surfing has given us a wonderful life while at the same time keeping us tied to her like an overbearing mother.
Jason and I are in the same place…out of the water.
Yet, the crazy part is that I am out due to misfortune and Jason is out because he wants to prove something.
So I read his posts and how he laments about the experience and I find it to be odd because we are two people who share so much commonality and yet he can just do what I can not do. He can just hop in his car and go surfing and end the aggravation.
But he will not.
Jason plans to be out of the water for a year. I plan to be out for maybe another month.
Then this surfer will know the feeling.
Of being back to doing what he enjoys.
If you want to read about Jason’s experiment of torture then read it all here: