Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling

Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling...Of getting a trophy after surfing some junky waves! I am in that group somewhere.

Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling…Of getting a trophy after surfing some junky waves! I am in that group somewhere.

 

Perhaps one of the most corniest ad campaigns…and yet…

Maybe one of the most relevant phrases ever uttered to surfers.

But what does it mean to me these days?

A Phrase for Every Moment

A few years back, this phrase meant that myself and the 75 people I shared the day with shared a special relationship as we back paddled each other and I sat so deep that no one could get inside of me without running aground on the jetty.

Being a surfer was me and it was what I have done for the majority of my life.

Now, it means something bad.

Only a surfer knows the feeling of being on the outside. Locked out from doing what they love.

Getting texts from friends in far-flung countries. Glaring at videos of perfect days. Watching wave after wave after wave come in to your friends on the local Surfline cam.

Masochism and Surviving

A great part of blogging is following the blogs of others.

One of my favorites belongs to Jason Borte.

Jason and I are almost the same. We both surfed contests. We both grew up surfing and surfing has given us a wonderful life while at the same time keeping us tied to her like an overbearing mother.

Jason and I are in the same place…out of the water.

Yet, the crazy part is that I am out due to misfortune and Jason is out because he wants to  prove something.

So I read his posts and how he laments about the experience and I find it to be odd because we are two people who share so much commonality and yet he can just do what I can not do. He can just hop in his car and go surfing and end the aggravation.

But he will not.

Jason plans to be out of the water for a year. I plan to be out for maybe another month.

Then this surfer will know the feeling.

Of being back to doing what he enjoys.

If you want to read about Jason’s experiment of torture then read it all here:

www.howsurfingruinedmylife.wordpress.com

 

 

 

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Noise to Note! #58

Families should stick together.

As I picked up new and different bands growing up; my sister was right behind soaking it up like a sponge.

For me, some bands are just synonymous with her.

Like the B-52s.

 

 

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Noise to Note! #57

Writing.

We all go through all sorts of twists and turns.

I have a back up of half-written works. Most are churned out and then I read them:

To repetitive

To preachy

To boring

Well…it will sort itself out.

Until then, here is Noise to Note!

This is my salute to my adoptive homeland which I may be visiting soon.

CeU – Bubuia.

 

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Noise to Note! #56

Some bands can be so catchy!

 

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Noise to Note! #55

Whoever recorded this should have edited it a bit better (it continues to a second song with no volume)…but the first song is gold.

 

 

Sunday Morning Coming Down – The Man in Black.

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More Wakesurfing!

So a short time ago, I posted this vid of me trying wakesurfing. The video was probably my second or third time on one and it was a bit odd for me.

Week after week, my friend Adam would call me to either check out some boards to demo and later to ride the demo board on the lake. Some were just way to small. Others were off. The fins were not what we wanted or the rails felt like they made the board catch or push water.

Finally, we found a decent board and then we started to wrap our heads around what we were doing.

So to provide a yard stick to measure the changes, here is the first video of our second excursion. Note rail digging and lack of real turns.

Now a month and a half or so has rolled on by and here is my latest short ride:

I do have to admit to one thing from my session today. I lost my marbles. I was being pulled and I was waiting for the water depth to increase so the wake would improve. Well, it must have because the wake started looking like a little wave at the inlet. I could only do one thing and that was to go into a nice bottom turn and then ride straight up into the little lip.

For a moment, I forgot that I was on a lake.

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Noise to Note! #54

Sorry to slack, Scott!

Friends of P – The Rentals

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