Life’s a Beach!
Yes, to us surfers, life is a beach. We are constantly living the dream in a lifestyle that some in the world only experience once every ten years. That is not even counting the other experiences we surfers have. Seeing dolphins, seal lions, otters, and whales. Watching the sun rise and set over the sea. And the adulation of the people on the beach as we come flying in to shore perched upon our surfing craft. Everything may seem perfect, yet some how I have a feeling that maybe there are hidden victims living in our aquatic paradise.
A Moment of Clarity
It was an awful day on the beach but there were some overhead peaks coming in that made for some wild rides. As I came out of the water, I noticed that the beach was almost empty besides a few cars that belonged to the surfers. Then I saw her.
Buried under layers of clothes to shield her from the biting cold; she sat besides the car. The only person outside. How long was she braving the elements just to watch her boyfriend catch a few short rides?
Then came a wave of thoughts. My ex-girlfriend standing on the pier waving down to me. Her face obscured by her hair that was caught by the whipping wind. Seeing the girlfriends of my buddies stuffed into a tent set up on the beach. They were forced inside sleeping bags because it was so cold. How could we surfers be so cruel to subject someone to such torture?
I found a great catch so I would like to thank her. Even though sometimes I am very appalled by her behavior and the disbelief only increases after I have caught a great ride and I look at the beach and she is sleeping. Can you believe she does not watch my every ride??? I know…
But I do have to say thanks for all she puts up with being with a surfer and the victimization she suffers from daily.
Being a board caddy/supply manager. She has spent many hours doing such dangerous things as carrying my extra surfboard through a jam-packed bus in Brazil. At the beach she is then in charge of my extra fins, wax, rash guard, sun protection, hat, leashes, and towels. What luck!
The endless messages. I guess women who are with non-surfers have to pay attention to see if some bar slag is sending their man some messages. Not for my girl! She has to block out message after message with such important information as, “Are the waves good today? Are you surfing tomorrow?” “What day will be good this week?” “The contest is starting in 35 minutes!” Followed by, “The contest is starting in 32 minutes!” Finally, “Did you see Parko’s barrel!!”
Surf contests. I really think this one needs no explanation.
The sad reality that the world is mainly made up of water. Poor, poor women. They have dreams that are filled with visits to romantic cities. So when my poor girl tells me she wants to visit Paris, she gets an answer like this. “Paris would be cool! Then after we are done with the visit, we can zip over to Lacanau because the sand bars should be great!” Sadly, this can also be said for a visit to New York, Sydney, Durban, and San Diego. Oh yeah! I forgot such countries as Japan, Chile, Peru, Mexico, all the Bahamas, New Zealand, Africa, and any other country bordering the Atlantic Ocean, Pacific Ocean, and the Indian Ocean. Did I mention the Gulf of Mexico?
Well, if you read this snuggle pants, I am sorry. On the bright side, you do get to watch some great surfing!
If you stay awake!!!