Yesterday, I was on the beach with 2 old friends whom I have been on many a journey with around the world. The waves were junky. The wind was blowing and just 5 miles offshore was a 15 foot great white shark.
I rode a board that I hadn’t ridden in ages. My feet were off. The waves were avoiding us it seemed.
Then waaaaaaaay over by the jetty came one wave. The drop was late. I set up against the face and for a few brief seconds it all came together. A view of the jetty through a hole. As I looked ahead I watched the lip spinning by me. Out I came and went in for a walk to catch up with my friends who had walked up the beach.
One wave sent me off to 2014 with a load of hope.
Here is to a bright new year!