These past few years have been a huge disaster in my life and that could be putting it mildly. At first though, I was a stressed unemployed person; which most are when they are looking for a job. There was one tiny crack of light…I surfed. If the waves were good, I woke up extra early and put in a few hours before firing up the lap top and churning out application after application.
When the funds ran dry, things took a sinister turn. Getting to the beach was not an economic choice.
So in the past 6 months, I have surfed or something resembling surfing. A friend took me here and there. Some times I even surfed behind a boat. But water time was minimal.
Now I am getting back on the horse so to speak and the ocean has greeted me with it’s finest…junk.
Last week, I surfed at Sebastian Inlet and it was not what I wanted. The tide was far to deep and the waves either closed out or dribbled pitifully over the sand bar. There would be no airs or anything fancy…only grade A contest groveling.
And grovel I did! I was the only person actually getting rides that would score over a 4 on the ASP tour. I pulled it off by careful wave selection and the most boring surfing one could imagine. Can we say floaters! Lots of them!
Yesterday I went back up to my home port and surfed at New Smyrna. Look up New Smyrna on Google. When there is no real swell, Smyrna can be waist-high. So it could be the only rideable spot on the entire east coast of the United States. This sounds heavenly except for the other claim to fame which I have posted about on The Side Wedge before and this would be the fact that sharks love to hang out there. So surfing there is always a bit nerve wracking. Especially when it is you and a few longboarders and the waves are barely up to your thigh.
How did I do? Once again, more groveling! I rode far better than the longboarders but could only muster some half snaps and end hits.
So this weekend looks like a better swell is on the way…Hoooray! So I might be able to actually get in some real turns.
So as far as I can tell…the lay off has not hindered me much. I need a new board though. So exercising and the what not has pretty much saved me in the bad times.
For the future:
I want to write about what I am actually doing more. It might become a second page. This way I can lay out what my training looks like and what I am doing in the water.
Have a good weekend!