If you have done some traveling; I think you will get this post. That is because sadly sometimes your very enjoyment of something will eventually lead to the downfall of the very thing you were enamored with.
For 5 years, I have been visiting Canoa Quebrada in Ceara state in Brazil. Not even just one time a year – several times! Our favorite restaurant is on Main Street and we have enjoyed staying at several fine pousadas.
So what changed it on this trip you ask? Well, let me give you the 411!
Canoa has always been a tourist town. So you expect some of the downfalls of a town based upon tourism. However, in the past the climate seemed tolerable. Within the past year or so, the changes have ramped up quickly.
Like any tourist area, there will always be people coming in to cash in on the tourists. This has lead to the expansion of the town itself. Our pousada had a friendly atmosphere but it was far from Broadway and we had to drive into town which we have never done before. The scary thing is that construction could be seen in the distance meaning more and more growth.
Life at the Beach!
To me, you visit the beach to relax. I love sitting at the table, eating some crabs and going for a swim. I am not crazy about telling a vendor every 5 minutes that I do not want a fine painting or some cheap sunglasses. There hardly seems to be a break in the assault and when it does happen, it is because they are assembling a large group to sweep through the tourists like a swarm of bees.
You can also meet another annoying person. He would be the toll collector of a public parking area. Instead of doing something more worthy such as selling an actual product; this local wino spends his day flagging in cars to spots that they can pull into themselves. The man also says that he is watching the cars but any gang of 10 year old kids could quickly over power him.
The Other Side
On my first draft of this post, I basically just spilled out all of the negatives about Canoa Quebrada. I then decided to just really think about the entire aspect of the town from the perspective of someone has not spent 5 years there.
The town still has wonderful restaurants to eat in and a good atmosphere. If you avoid the barracas and find a nice quiet area, I am sure you can enjoy the beach. The beach is beautiful and scenic and the famous sand dunes are still intact amazingly since they are assaulted daily by dune buggies riding tourists around.
For my next series of non-surfing related articles, I am going to pass along some new places that we found in Ceara that are worthy of praise.
We found 2 pousadas that are opposites in some respects yet both focus on creating a great experience. These two made a great trip excellent!