The swell was missing the point but even minus the waves; this spot was a place that I knew was special. It was well worth the long hike to reach it.
The main spot is not even in this picture. The bay is special though.
I was around 17 when this was taken. This picture will pop up in my next post about a poor teaching method that surf schools are guilty of. It has to do with my front arm and my chest and how it is aligned to the wave. It does not take a genius to guess what it is.