I have spoken many times about my rough start to surfing and to entering the teen years and also about the changes it brought. I will not lie. I was not always the best person in the world but I was a kid. A kid who like most kids feels that sense of invincibility and who also might feel that they are more capable than they actually are. And for me, I went from being someone who was very ignored and left out to being the center of attention within a few short years.
Unsettled and divided.
This is my life.
But always living on different sides of the fence. Climbing back and forth.
Being a normal teen at school and being some place far away. Being with my friends at the beach and climbing into my bed at home in an inland city. Never completely belonging anywhere.
To this day it is still like this. But as a kid, it was something I had to adapt to. Some of it was going on and at the time I had no idea how big it was until it was all over. Some things just happened. For the team mates of Scottie Pippen and Michael Jordan, it was just some stars aligning that brought them all together and I just happened to crash land at a good moment. Stories for books I guess.
Now I am climbing the walls again. Trying to regain some small portion of what I once had. Because the life on this side that I am currently stuck in is not for me.