This is a very poor picture but it really illustrates a point that separates we hero surfers on Mount Olympus and the sad masses below that are doomed to a life of blowing turns and struggling in the surf.
- As one can see, I am bringing this turn around to keep me close to the white water so I can connect this one to the shore. I am loading up to pop my board off of the whitewater to get me in a better position to connect this one in.
- Notice my head and you can see where I am looking. That is the top of the wave. Now look at the nose of my board. Facing down the line. I am spotting where I need to go far before I get there.
- Novices try to turn their entire body at once and usually wipe out or dig a rail and lose speed.
- The correct way is to turn your head first, then you upper body, then work your way down. You are using the upper body to create tension which pulls the lower body into place and correctly keeps the board on rail and creates the flow from turn to turn.
Once again, the same concept. You can see that my shoulders are pulling my lower body back towards the steep part of the wave and that I am already checking out what is going on down the line and that I am seeing that it is not very walled up so another set up turn was probably done until the wave steepened up more.
So your mission is to focus on the wave and where you need to go and not to check out your feet or to not just force turns in one motion and ruin a perfectly good wave!
Get out there and charge! And as always I am free to answer any questions you may have in regards to improving your surfing.