I was digging through some files and found some clippings that I saved. Reading them put a big smile on my face. However, as flattered as I am from these, I was at a loss on how to keep them on my blog as a form of preservation without having it all seem like an ego issue for myself. Finally, I just said why not? They are just compliments and a kind gestures.
The first item came from a post on a surf forum called 2ndlight.com. On the forum, someone posed a simple question and that was who was their favorite surfer on the site and why. There were many responses because my area is a hotbed of talent but my name came up overwhelmingly in the shortboard category.
The second item was from a post in which the question was asked to name the best surfers you had seen in real life. In this post, I was listed along with Kelly Slater, Matt Kechele, Damien and C.J. Hobgood, Scott Bouchard,and Bryan Hewitson. So I was humbled that someone felt that my surfing came to mind over many other well qualified individuals that I surf with regularly.
Finally, there is a post in which a surfer tells a story of going to the beach on a lackluster day. He sees a guy down the beach putting it down on the gutless junk and after the surfer goes in; he realizes it is me.
So some pretty nice compliments which is always nice.
Finally, I will just say this.
I can not really say what motivates me. Sometimes I do enjoy some showmanship. I am not a daredevil with a death wish.
Mainly there is some voice I hear that overpowers my inner dialogue. When it is big and this wave pops up that looks extra hideous, my inner voice tells me that this is the one I have to try and tackle. When the voice tells me that I need to gun it for the shoulder, the louder voice tells me to put on the brakes and relax. That I will make it through whatever happens.
Thanks to everyone who has supported the show!
Also thanks to 2ndlight.com and The Boardheads and Doreen who took the first two shots on this post.