This hurricane season will go down as one of the most catastrophic seasons on record. These storms have done damage to many I know scattered from the mainland United States to the Caribbean. My heart weighs heavy for anyone whom has been affected.
For me, working on the coast in a resort has put surfing on a different priority. Once the resort and town are damaged, surfing must take a second seat to correcting and repairing the property in which I am employed. This happened last year during Hurricane Matthew. Instead of surfing, I spent long days helping to clean up down tree limbs and other debris.
For some though, the storms did deliver. Classic surf came to some spots and destroyed others. So at times, finding the best spot was a crap shoot. I would say that as far as myself taking on some challenging surf went: I completely lost out. I had two early-morning sessions in the most convenient surf spots which unfortunately were not as big as other spots. But, I did surf and I am thankful for that!
So I bet you think that I am disappointed…
Not at all!
I rode a 5 foot 5 Tomo during this swell and for many middle-aged surfers; this would not seem like a good idea. I always receive questions about my board and I always tell people the same thing. If you focus on the odd nature of the board then you will never ride it well. I just catch the waves and do what my experience tells me to do and that is to pay attention to the wave and do the turn that fits in best with what the wave seems to be doing.
Going further to life in general, people spend to much time focusing outward. Asking questions such as what is my co-worker doing and how can they afford that? What if this goes wrong and someone decides to break the rules? Where is this person going?
The answer is that you can not control the actions of others. You can not make someone do what you think is right. You can not make someone vote the way you feel they should vote. You can not force people to be valiant or saintly.
You can control your own life and your own actions.
So I spent my day working on my surfing and making the choice to enjoy the experience with the other surfers who also came out. One guy came down from Massachusetts on a business trip which is a long ride so I made him feel welcome.
I also was grateful that I was able to surf with a few friends whom I have not surfed with years. One of them, Matt Sawyer, grabbed his camera and was cool enough to get a few shots of me riding.
So yes, I did not get to surf the best waves of Hurricane Irma or Hurricane Maria.
I did get to surf with some good friends, get some photos taken, and enjoy a few relaxing days of practicing.