The Winning Warrior


Photo: Ross Bullard


A good friend of mine set me a picture just after Owen Wright won the first WCT event for the 2017 season. The event was held at Snapper Rocks in Australia. The picture he took was just before the finals between Owen Wright and Matt Wilkinson. Neither of the two are in the picture at all.

The picture is of Mrs. Wright and Mr. Wilkinson. The parents of the finalists. What the live broadcast missed was of two proud parents. Parents that had driven their children to a thousand surf contests and were now seeing them realize their dreams. During this course of time, they would bond over the events and of having their children become friends themselves. Both have shared sponsors and both support each other out of the water.

Sure it is competition. Someone will win and someone will finish runner up. However, at the end of the day it is just important to enjoy your job, forge relationships, and be proud of the experience as it is to win. If you do things right; hopefully at some point you will win. Winning is pretty empty when you are winning by yourself.

Thanks to my good buddy Ross Bullard for the pics, the surf reports, and the great friendship!

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Oh, The Places You Will Go – Part 2


My buddy Alex is an interesting guy. I had to document the fact that he enjoyed wandering around the resort by himself doing who knows what. Maui, Hawaii.


I shudder to think of how many places I visited and never took a photo. I used to take my camera on trips. I worried about the camera being stolen when I surfed and I did not want to be identified as a tourist which could open yourself up to being robbed.

Over time, I learned to hide my property and to take pictures without worrying that I was coming off as the tourist with a fanny pack and a luau shirt. Anyway, sad to say that most of my early travel memories were saved due to the kindness of others who took pictures and sent them to me.

So without further haste; here is another set for the archives.


Do they have good cheese? Who knows! The name of this place made us laugh so hard that we immediately went in and purchased t-shirts. Maui, Hawaii.


People on the beach. Well, myself and my mother. Surf was fun too! Ft. Walton Beach, Florida


Sometimes one is in a fine resort…Another trip you could be in an old, run down motel. Our deluxe stay in Puerto Rico.


Rudy’s Place Cottage – Abaco, Bahamas.


We surfed this with a crowd of 2 in Abaco, Bahamas.


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Noise to Note! #135

Noise to Note!

This was released around 1988.

These two guys kicked it up a few notches and made the game more complex than rhyming words.

Eric B and Rakim – Lyrics of Fury

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Oh, the Places You Will Go

I dedicated an album on my Facebook page just to my travel. Traveling as a professional surfer I would believe is somewhat special. You tend to stay with people or travel with a group of friends. The downfall would be showing up at a new town and bringing with you a traveling circus. So from time to time I would pull out a camera and snap a photo or two.

These are just a few:


Prainha, Brazil

Arctic boy

Getting ready for a cool dip…Lincoln City, Oregon


Hiking in the Kilauea Volcano crater.


Driving along the cliffs on Maui


Culebra, Puerto Rico

You can not truly understand the world until you have stepped out of your own.

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A Layover


I have spent a lot of time on planes. Too much time on them. So when I begun to ponder my absence from writing; an analogy came to mind from a plane flight.

When you fly, you always watch the safety demonstration. And in every demonstration there are instructions to put your mask on first and then after you are in good shape; to then assist the child or elderly person next to you.

I need to get my mask secured and the oxygen flowing.

Be back soon!

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Noise to Note! #134

Noise to Note!

If you want to be played on the radio you need to create a 3 minute song.

You need a good 3 minute song for a movie soundtrack.

If you have something say to say or you want to create a musical work; you make go as long as it needs to. Maybe 5 minutes? Maybe like Yes did…you make a song that covers an entire side of one album.

Arcade Fire – Sprawl II (Mountains Beyond Mountains).

A bit longer than 3 minutes but worth every extra second.


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Being There


I wish I could snap a picture of my employees during their lunch break. Mind you…the youngest in the group is in their mid-twenties and others are in their sixties.

The room is mainly silent. Except for a few moments of chatting. Then there is some occasional laughter. Laughing in regards to a video they have just watched.

Everyone is connected to some place. To the past. To a post. To a video. Yet, they are unconnected to the present going on right in front of them.


On the flipside, a mother stands on the shore watching the world through her camera. A surfer, her daughter, catches a wave and something incredible happens behind her. A Manta Ray has made his way closer to shore than usual. And in a split-second he breaches and it is captured by a person dialed into what is happening around him.


A few people took other photos of this rare occurrence as the Manta Ray swam within a few feet of the shore. Then, turned around and disappeared.


Maybe the video will be uploaded and manipulated with funny music and some over-modulated noises. And later enjoyed in a silent break room. To people who are connecting.

And who took these great photos?? Natasha Long took them of her daughter, Jasmine.

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