Loving Junk

Prepare for more cutbacks!

Prepare for more cutbacks!

This was just one of those days.

The swell was forecasted to be up and a photographer wanted to shoot some photos.

When we made it to the beach we instantly could tell it was not right. The full moon made the sand bars too deep and what should have been perfect walls had been replaced by a jumbled mess.

So I paddled out and began to just try to make something happen. What I ended up with was a slew of cutbacks and check turns just trying to find the one perfect section.

On one wave I had one section to belt and I did. The picture ended up in Eastern Surfing Magazine. The rest went straight to the drawer. These are the photos from the drawer.

We all love those perfect days but what makes us improve is to be able to hammer away at the less than stellar days. You may end up with a lot of photos for some old forgotten drawer but one time you might hit the target.

Easing through the flat spots

Easing through the flat spots

Check turn

Check turn

Cutting back

Cutting back some more!



Finally! Something to hit!

Finally! Something to hit!

Perseverance is a good trait to have.

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The End of an Era

ASP - East First Season Ratings

ASP – East First Season Ratings


What you are viewing is a fossil. This relic contains a story that is perhaps one of the most important items in modern surfing history.

You see, once there was a contest formula called 4 to the Shore. Basically you were judged on 4 waves and part of the criteria was length of ride. So imagine a person surfing in an event and really trying his hardest to do the most difficult tricks. If the surfer did not properly execute his turns; he could go off balance and maybe even have the unspeakable happen which is that the surfer might lose his speed and then fail to ride the wave to the shoreline. The end result was the surfers began to surf to the system. This meant that turns were measured. The surfers pretty much played it safe.

Then arrived the ASP-East. The judges still judged on your best 4 waves but they really wanted to see something big. So the surfers ditched half-snaps and s-turns for bigger turns and airs.

What also pushed things along as well was the talent pool. The first year was a big experiment and many surfers were unsure what to do. Future pros such as Danny Melhado and David Speir kept their amateur status but began to surf in events. Kelly Slater also was getting experience in the pro ranks and was gaining momentum that carried him over to the P.S.A.A. and the Black and White film. Some surfers would just sign up and surf an event or two just to test the water. By the time the season ended, international surfers such as Gary Green and Nicky Woods had made the journey in search of some extra money and bonus points.

By the time the ASP-East had made the final curtain call, the landscape had changed dramatically. Shea and Cory Lopez had come aboard and internationals like Shane Dorian and Todd Prestage had also entered.

This later would culminate in The Momentum generation that would change the sport and the direction of modern surfing.

So inspect this document and look at some of the names. Some are known for going on to the big tour. Some became commentators and others known free surfers. #65 is my favorite!

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Noise to Note! #86

Pets are special. Like children, they put a lot of demands upon you. Food, toys, walks, grooming…

So Al Stewart got his title wrong. It is not the Year of the Cat…because they own you forever! Ha ha ha!

Al Stewart – Year of the Cat

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Noise to Note! #85

And it is on time too!

So the last few days, I was really dead set on something from Panda Bear. I watched videos and went through different songs. Narrowed it down to a few choices.

Then today I woke up and just felt peaceful and calm. I thought of a trip to California. A few kids in a van driving across the United States. In the desert, we sweated like pigs because the owner did not want to run the air conditioner. We pulled into neighborhoods and slept in the van. Trying to keep a low profile not to raise suspicion that we were not visiting someone. This went on for days on end until the day came in which the Pacific Ocean sprung into view between the hills. A ruffled field of dark blue.

The van only had a cassette player and we brought 5 cassettes. So it was a constant loop of Minor Threat, T.S.O.L., Bob Marley, J.F.A., and this. Steel Pulse. This ran constantly. So I can not think of cruising down the PCH without hearing Steel Pulse in my mind as the sound track. A few kids laughing and peering out the window. Low on funds. No idea when we were going back home. No cares.

Steel Pulse – Ravers

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Many of us have to deal with the dreaded dance of fighting with our wetsuit and booties in a life and death struggle to remove our wetsuit after a day of surfing. A few times, I almost felt as if I had broken my fingers trying to pry my booties off my feet.

Then I came across this product called WETSOX. WETSOX have one thing that the old plastic bag trick can not beat. They stay on your feet until you take them off. Even better is the fact that they are the length of tube socks which ensures the legs of your wetsuit slide on and off easily as well.

So to my friends in cold water locales…A portion of your struggle is about to end!

Check them out at http://www.wetsox.com



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Noise to Note! #84

The last month and a few stray weeks was not very entertaining. First, it was torpedoed by a box in the road that resulted in my car needing a brand new radiator which put a hole in my measly savings. Then my beloved elderly cat checked out for cat-heaven. I also had a few other undisclosed personal issues as well. Then to top it all off, the Quicksilver Pro has been a disaster marred with lay days and no ability to move to Duranbah.

Then came another animal related issue that I was trying to solve that chewed up my free time last weekend.  This one came right as I was going to post the Noise to Note! so that did not happen.

So looking back, all of this seems to have knocked my gyroscope off its axis to some degree and my daily routines have been suffering. So I am working to get things back on track. My workouts have been suffering and so has been my studying of Portuguese that I was doing so great with. I can now even string together a sentence that will allow me to freely converse with 3 year olds and that all might fade with no practice.

So this weekend I thought of what song conveys my feelings. And I thought of old Major Tom. Earth below us. Drifting falling. Floating weightless.

So here is Peter Schilling doing Major Tom:



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This came across my desk and I knew I had to pass it on.

Mr. Parkes did not win the trials but he stole the show with this air.


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