Noise to Note! #95

I am always amazed by the bands of old. How they could take to the stage and recreate their songs from the studio minus being auto tuned or playing to a track.

Of course it takes heaps of talent and Heart was loaded with it. Roger Fisher was perhaps the glue of the band behind Ann and Nancy Wilson. His guitar playing was flawless.

Their fashion sense though was a bit confusing. What a strange vest worn by the bassist!

Heart – Crazy on You.

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A Current Affair

Incredible Photo by Luke Bhothipiti

Incredible Photo by Luke Bhothipiti

Those Darn Pros!

It would be to my advantage to have the surfing masses cower in terror when I paddle by them. But in all seriousness, ever personally meet a professional surfer?

Fit? Extremely.

Giant? Hardly.

So how do we do those super human things we do?

We use everything to our advantage.

Running the Paddling Race

My home break is nestled against a mega-jetty. On a big day, I am greeted by a paddle out that could be a 3/4 of a mile. Further down the beach is another section that breaks closer to shore but still is a pain to get to. Beyond that is another outer section where big peaks roll through.

My friends and I laugh at the civilians. There is a big trench that runs next to the jetty with a strong rip that pulls you out to sea. On smaller days, the sand builds up right along the rocks so you can walk out along the jetty way past the outside section of the Pole Bowl, which is the section down the beach. We just stroll out past where the surfers are and jump in and paddle over without a care in the world. If the water is too deep, we just paddle in the trench and we are far beyond the break in a matter of minutes.

Now my home break with a bit more size. Notice how you can slip out by the jetty? Photo by Patrick Ruddy.

Now my home break with a bit more size. Notice how you can slip out by the jetty? Photo by Patrick Ruddy.

When you carefully inspect this photo; notice how many surfers are paddling out on  the left side of the photo and how many can you find paddling by the rocks? Now think of how much time and energy it would take to get the furthest take off area by taking the route to the left.

Trick or Treats?

Tricks like this can be used in a variety of situations. Around jetties, close to the headlands by point breaks, and around piers. Even some breaks have small refracting waves that break up the white water when you are paddling out. Once you see the wave moving down the beach, you can time it so you can use the disruption to get under the white water easier.

This is because the ocean is constantly moving. The water naturally returns seaward by finding deeper trenches. If waves are breaking in a predominant manner, the water can be pushed toward the beach and then it sweeps along the shore in the opposite direction of the breaking waves seeking an area to return to the sea. This happens frequently when the water finds the trenches I spoke of and the rip offers a free ride back out.

One word of advice…Just be careful when paddling out around structures to ensure the current is running the right way so you do not end up becoming a victim of running aground on a jetty or hitting the pier pilings. If you unsure, wait for someone who is familiar with the break to paddle out and watch how they did it.

play the game smart and you will have more energy to spend on what matters the most which is surfing…not an endless paddle out.

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Noise to Note! #94

Travelers are souls that never feel grounded.

Home. Is where I want to be. But I guess that I am already there.

Talking Heads: This Must be the Place.

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Noise to Note! #93

This video is the version that the band never used officially. The official version has more clips and no poor dancing from the musicians but it is to sanitized for my tastes.

Dream Academy – Life in a Northern Town

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Noise to Note! #92

Discovering Camper Van Beethoven was an enlightening experience. The music scene was rich with bands that were pushing the limits of their keyboards. Serious folks. Then came this folksy band that delivered stream of conscience lyrics.

What makes them great too is that for fans of old rock music; you can hear silly nods to the classics. A riff from a song, lyrics ripped from the standards, and they also do great covers as well.

So for this week…

Camper Van Beethoven – Take the Skinheads Bowling

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Noise to Note! #91

Industrial is another genre of music that is hard to pin down. It seems to have formed within performance art and experiments from Frank Zappa and Lou Reed. Later, Throbbing Gristle emerged as one of the first actual bands that took up the experiment on a full-time basis.

Perhaps one of the most influential acts in the United Scene was Ministry. Their first album was a synth-pop driven affair but then came Twitch. Twitch brought Industrial a few steps forward out of the shadows.

Here is a track from the album. Enjoy the madness!

Ministry – Just Like You

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From the Scrapbook #5

I had a layback for just any situation.

I had a layback for any situation

Every once in a while, I was treated to something special. I would run across Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Mark Lydell, Louie Ferreria, and Vince Klyne. It seemed that every wave had some sort of layback being performed. I had to follow suit!

Sebastian Inlet

Sebastian Inlet

A ride during a surf contest. Thus, the lack of people and the photographer.


Today: Air to reverse section

The Past: Backside floater section


My friend Tim Kovats created this artwork on my board bag. Best board bag I ever had! Thanks Timmy!


Watch out! Even when on the dock they can spring to life! Ha ha!

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